Vezio Castle and the Fiumlatte

Our second full day in Varenna saw us head up the hill to the Castello di Vezio after breakfast.  It was a hot day again and the morning is the time to make the trek up the hill.  From our hotel we had a head start from those starting in the street below so we had that going for us as well.  Not that it was a race mind you, but we might as well start 1/4 of the way up the hill.  

We encountered the gentleman you see in the picture weedeating the trail; he was not happy about the hazy view and told us tomorrow would be a better day.

 

 

It was a nice 30 minute hike up the hill, we consistently were a solid 25% longer on every hike in Italy than the signage indicated, and we arrived at the entrance promptly at 10am, not realizing that was the opening time for the biglietteria (tix office).  We purchased tix and a two espresso, we just couldn't get enough and the hotel had a self service machine instead of a true espresso.  We then headed up to the castle, noting the multiple bird cages they had on site.  The castle has regular falconry demonstrations, unbeknownst to us (wish the hotel would have told us), however they were in the afternoon and not on Mondays, which was when we visited.  Alas the castle, while small and decorated with the worst suit of armor I've ever seen, had some remarkable views.  That was after I climbed the last set of stairs and pulled the rock and rope to open the door to the top of the tower.  Kathie and I wagered that the other couples we saw walk into the tower didn't make it onto the roof due to the closed door.  

 

 

 

After taking a wrong turn looking for what we thought was a waterfall on the way back down the hill we ran into a real nice couple.  They were American, Hawaiian is my bet, and they told us where we went wrong and described the trail to the Fiumelatte, the shortest river in Italy.  It measures only 250m from the inside of a cave and runs down the side of the hill into Lake Como.  We hiked down to the hotel and then over to the source of the Fiumelatte, 

 

Unfortunately I couldn't find a good spot to get in for a swim, didn't need to get hurt this close to the end of the trip anyway, although I used the nearby fountain diverted from the river to cool off and enjoy some tasty mountain water.  

We headed back to the hotel for riposo after the nice morning of hiking, enjoying lunchmeat and formagio purchased at the macelleria the day before for a late lunch.  

After a lazy afternoon we headed out to Varenna and what some call the most romantic restaurant on Lake Como, Ristorante Vecchia Varenna.  As we sat right on edge of the lake the storm that had been brewing all day finally cut loose.  We watched from the nice patio room, protected by large plastic windows, as the storm marched across the lake and we dined on local white wine and risotto with lake fish as a primi piatti.  I had the most delicious rabbit with olives and capers over humus, Kathie had lake fish wrapped in bacon.  Mine was far better, usually that is not the case.

After a lovely meal we set off, just after 10, looking for gelato.  It was a Monday night and the first 2 shops we found were closed, but then we ran into a gelateria with the window still open.  I paused for a moment and the sweet lady inside stopped mopping and asked if I wanted some gelato.  My answer was a big smile and a double pistacchio please. 

Another lovely day in Italy.