Appia Antica and the Acquedotti

The crowds and heat of Rome were frankly too much for us so we set off for a bike ride on our last day in Rome.  We had a little trouble with the bus and getting to the proper stop, missing it as the bus driver was the first person in 4 weeks that I've spoken with who wasn't friendly.  We weren't ready for the hike back to the stop and needed to devise a plan to get back.  Many times a picture can tell the story better.

 

We arrived at the bike rental which is located at the information point of the Parco Regionale dell'Appia Antica, got some basic information and headed out.  We did this seven years ago with out kids and it was great, biking along the oldest "highway" in the Roman Empire, many parts still containing the original basalt stone road, which doesn't lend itself to a smooth ride.

 

 

 

The crowds were light, the weather hot but bareable with the wind and shade, and the company was awesome.  Although Gena made every effort to wreck a couple different times, once causing Kathie to stop and get herself together after a serious laughing fit, nobody wrecked.  We had a great time putting in about 10 miles on the Appia Antica and riding over to the Acqueduct Park.  

 

 

 

We flew the drone a little:

This was a can't miss in Rome for me, after seeing the acqueducts from a distance I had to get up and touch them.  The sheep grazing, the quiet of the park, the incredible ancient engineering to provide supply the city, just fascinating to see.  When you look at the logistics of this network of acqueducts, then close your eyes and imagine the construction and end result/usage, well it gives me chills.

Note the old gentleman, about 80, under the umbrella in a suit herding sheep in the park.  Almost surreal.

 

We returned to Trastevere for a rest and then dinner at Osteria der Belli, just off the Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere.  We've enjoyed a lot of dining out, on this trip and many other places; I'm here to say this was a top 5 spot I've ever enjoyed.  First off they hurried to clean up tables for our party of 5, then delivered the house wine and water right on time.  So as we looked over the menu I was ready to go with the local/traditional recipe as I've been trying thoughout the trip, in Rome its Bucatini all'Amatriciana, and I've had serious trouble trying to pronounce it.  Anyway our waiter Julio asked me for  my order I fumbled the words and he stopped me and said "No, we don't have that.  This place is known for seafood, you order seafood.  You order 2 dishes either with anchovies, with sea bass, or with vongole (clams).  Ok."  Then he pointed at Rose Ann and asked "What do you want?"  Mind you this is going like the Soup Nazi episode in Seinfeld, we were all taken a back just a little.  So Rose Ann ordered the pasta and anchovies, I seconded that one, Ron & Gena forceably got the pasta and sea bass, and naturally Kathie got exactly what she wanted, cooked in a single order size, spaghetti con vongole.    I then asked for a secondo piatti, the only person that wanted a second course.  I'd never seen formaggio arosta (roasted cheese) on a menu before and had to try it.  Julio said "No, you get the mixed seafood, it is very good."  I pushed back and told him I wanted the formaggio and he very reluctantly said ok, asking if I wanted it with honey or not.  I was not sure and don't think I answered definitively, I was worried he was going to say "No, you come back, one year!"  Then brother Ron, in search of the best calamari, asked if they had an antipasta of calamari.  Julio gave his approval and headed to another table.

So there we were, not sure how to process this guy, about 28 years old, reddish hair, muscular build, telling us what we had to eat. So we laughed it off, had some wine and awaited the squid.  Julio returned a few minutes later and set the plate of squid, butterflied and grilled with a touch of breadcrumbs, not fried, in front of Ron with a simple "This is special."  That dude did not lie, I'm here to tell you that is the best squid any of us have ever tried.  So now we're hooked and Julio knows it, smiling from another table.  Then the pasta arrives, timely after the appetizer, and watch out people, Julio nailed it again.  Imagine a simple, elegant dish with just the right combination of light sauce, tomatoes and anchovies/fish/clams.  It was spectacular and we're trading bites, smiling and laughing it up all the way to the last scrap of food.  But there's more after the plates are cleaned, I'm waiting for my formaggio arosta afterall.  And waiting.  And Julio isn't in a hurry to deliver it, he's helping clean another table but I'm certainly not going to say anything, however Ron did.  He asks, "Hey, didn't you order that cheese?" Just loud enough that I'm sure Julio heard.  I just kind of nodded as did Julio, who approached the table about 5 minutes later and said, "Your secondi is coming". Works for me, I just had some more wine and waited for this guy to deliver something else to tickle my tastebuds.  When he put that square of golden cheese, covered in honey as he decided for me, down in front of me everybody drooled and wanted a bite.  Yea, it was fantastic.  We all shared the dish and smiled the evening away.  As we left he was quite gracious, shaking all our hands and hugging the ladies, I think they all blushed.  It was a great meal and I couldn't recommend a place to eat in Rome more than this one.  It was good enough for the Israeli Ambassador, who was dining inside with about 20 different guards posted around the place, and it is good enough for you.  Trust me.

We've adapted an old abreviation, WWJD, What Would Julio Do.  Thanks for great night.

My formaggio arosta, simple yet so delicious.  I believe it was parmigiano on the bottom with fontina on top, then roasted and covered in honey.  The looks are deceiving.

 

Gelato finished an awesome memory making day!